Villa Petrolea, the Nobel Brothers Museum – Baku, Azerbaijan

The main gate shows the nearby Ateshgah Zoroastrian fire temple

After our delicious jaunt to Lankaran we made the long drive back to Baku, where we visited a Museum dedicated to the Nobel brothers, of Peace Prize fame.

Nobel’s reception

The Nobles came to Azerbaijan to invest in Ironwood cultivation, but soon realised there was more money to be made in Azerbaijan’s easy to extract oil.

Nobel’s office

They rapidly made a fortune and in 1884 built a house to match their new found wealth. This was named Villa Petrolea.

Gardens at Villa Petrolea

Man riding a goat, both wearing matching sunglasses. Obviously.

Despite being built on oil-soaked ground, the gardens are lush and fertile – all the soil was shipped in from Lankaran, the sub-tropical area of Azerbaijan. The gardens were then populated with plants from all over Russia and Europe.

The Nobels lost Villa Petrolea in the 1920s, and over the next eighty years it fell into disrepair during the Soviet rule.

A complete restoration was completed in 2008 and the lower floor is now a Nobel Museum. Much of the original house and contents, such as the fireplaces and furniture have been recreated precisely, but the museum aspect takes over the walls.

Photos, paintings and odd decorations line every surface.

Dining room in the Baku Nobel Oil Club

The upper floor has become the Baku Nobel Oil Club, built in the elegant style of an English gentlemen’s club. I’d like to have spent an evening or two there playing pool and poker.

The Baku Nobel Oil Club house also has a very fancy bedroom

Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre

Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre

On the drive back into town we stopped at what is popularly called the ‘Presidents Cultural Centre’. It was designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid and houses a conference hall, library and museum. The white outer layer is all one surface, giving it a pleasing fluid feel.

Starters at the Baku Yacht Club Gala Dinner

Yacht Club Gala Dinner

In the evening we were invited to another Gala Dinner at Baku Yacht Club with a lot of politicians, who were in town for the conference. The food was attractively presented, but a little bland compared to our recent feasts. The dishes such as boiled chicken or plain potato salad were very popular with the Russians, as was the overly loud violinist entertainment.

Dolma stuffed grape leaves. Photo from AzCookbook

The saving grace of the evening was another new dish called dolma, or stuffed grape leaves, which were delicious. Fortunately there seemed a limitless supply of these labour-intensive morsels.

AZCookbook once again has an excellent recipe for dolma. Serve with the same garlicky yoghurt as the Dolmasi stuffed vegetables.

I was sat at the same table as a Lithuanian minister. She was enthralled by what I considered the annoyingly self-congratulating violinist. She was singing and clapping along, and ended the evening in tears of rapture.

Whilst the Russian delegations danced energetically round the ballroom floor. I think jet-lag had finally caught up with me as I wasn’t feeling it, so left them to it and went outside for some photos of the Flame Tower at night.

The dancing seemed as endless as the supply of dolma, so a couple of us left them there and took a taxi back to the hotel. The driver was friendly enough but wouldn’t use the meter so the fare was up for negotiation – it’s difficult to claim poverty and say “Ooh,that’s a bit expensive” when staying at the Jumeriah.

Our hosts have fun, and the beloved violinist

This trip was arranged by the Azerbaijan Tourist Board, as part of the United Nations World Tourism Organisation Silk Road Conference.

Hopefully related posts:

Flame Towers – Baku, Azerbaijan Our introduction to Azerbaijani Food – Baku, Azerbaijan Visiting Azerbaijan’s Crystal Hall – Baku Ateshgah of Baku: The Zoroastrian Fire Temple – Azerbaijan