Something has changed – Xiahe, Gansu Province

Last time I arrived in Xiahe, back in 2006, I was bouncing along in the back of a dusty old truck, barely able to hear the expressions of delight of my companions over the roar of the engine. I videoed out the window as we drove from the predominantly Han side of town across an unofficial but very visible line into the Tibetan Quarter.

This time, we silently rolled into town in the back of a sleek black limousine. The previously divided, almost segregated town now appears far more integrated. Coming from the north, we arrived in the modern, previously Han area. This could be any town in the area, until the brighty coloured Tibetan Hotel appears. This marks the beginning of the old town, where a few of the remaining old buildings are still in the Tibetan style, but many have been replaced with the usual grey boxes.

 

Last time, on the first night we holed up in a cheap hostel. There was no internet connection in such a remote place and the only ventilation in our dorm room came from the lack of doors. This led to us meeting all sorts of interesting people and getting to know a couple of excitable Dutch girls, who after sharing a few beers led me somewhere more private to share their secret stash of cheese.

This time we stayed in the best hotel in town. The air conditioning was too cold, the bed too small and the internet too slow. We stayed in the room and read up on the quietest time to visit the Labrang Temple.

 

Last time I was here, I ate dinner alone in a dilapidated restaurant above a shop. It catered primarily to visiting monks and everyone sat round a large table eating some pretty awful Momos and Yak Butter Tea. We ate unidentified balls of animal that were quite possibly animal balls. Despite no shared language, we connected with simple smiles.

This time our driver found another closed restaurant, and opened it just for us. The food was good, but we ate in isolation.

 

Last time the hostel breakfast was a fried egg between two slices of cheap white bread, eaten on the go, and it was perfection.

This time the hotel breakfast was a sit down three-course meal, served by eight grumpy members of staff. It was dull but edible.

 

Last time I was here everyone but the pilgrims travelled around town by bicycle.

This time the townsfolk and domestic tourists are all riding in 4×4’s and luxury cars, whilst the only people on bikes are foreign tourists. Only the most devout pilgrims are still on foot.

 

Last time we cycled out into the country and took a few photos of fields and pastures.

This time we drove out. Having taken a photo of one side of a rapeseed field the driver wanted a photo from another angle. An hour of driving later and he couldn’t get into a good position. I suggested returning to the original spot and perhaps just walking the 200m to the other side of the field. From his reaction, you’d think I’d suggested we recreate the Long March.

 

Last time we climbed a hill and chanced upon a family of pilgrims living in yurt. They invited us in for tea and we gladly accepted. They let one of the girls ride away on their horse whilst the rest of us helped them make butter.

This time we climbed a hill to discover a man in a yurt selling cans of Coke. He offered us a ride on his horse for a small fee.

 

Last time we spent an evening wandering round town, hopping in and out of bars and shops. By the end of the night we’d accumulated all sorts unnecessary souvenirs, like cheap prayer wheels, singing bowls, hats and even a sword.

This time we walked along until we found a supermarket and stocked up on water for the next day.

 

It’s sometimes good to revisit a destination to see what has changed in a place. It’s fun to show people round who haven’t visited before, and with a little local knowledge, discovering new places off the tourist track becomes that much easier. At the same time, it can highlight how much things have moved on in your own life, for better or worse.

I equally enjoyed both visits to Xiahe, so something has changed and it’s not just the town.