QiKou KeZhan and the Black Dragon Temple – QiKouzhen, Shanxi

The massive front doors of the Qikou Kezhan inn

Qikou Kezhan

This was the hotel we stayed at in Qikou. The Qikou Inn (QiKou KeZhan) is an old merchant’s house on the waterfront, and undoubtedly the most popular accommodation in the town.

Looking towards the Yellow River

Each room is similar in style to a LiJiaShan cave dwelling and comes with a Kang bed and a basic en-suite bathroom. Thanks to the heavy walls these stay reasonably comfortable in both hot and cold weather.

The windows were made of paper and just a few Chinese tourists can generate a whole lot of noise, especially after a few drinks, so be prepared for a short night’s sleep.

View from the terrace

The hotel has televisions and surprisingly an internet cable in each room, although it didn’t seem to work.

Qikou Kezhan Contact Details

Address: Lu Liang Lin County, Shanxi Province, Linxian County, Qikou Village

Telephone: 0358-4466188

The Black Dragon Temple stage

XuanlongSi, the Black Dragon Temple

Overlooking the town is XuanlongSi, a Cheng-Huang Miao, or a temple dedicated to the local gods.

Each administrative centre in traditional Chinese society had a temple dedicated to the city gods of justice, or Cheng Huang. These city gods act as an “otherworldly bureaucracy” and are believed responsible for the safely and prosperity of their worshippers.

Looking out from the stage

Local real-world bureaucrats were tasked with petitioning the city god on behalf of the general populace, and reporting the god’s replies. Seems like an infallible system that could in no way be taken advantage of at all.

The city gods were also paraded round the parish in ornate processions, which helped purify ghosts and demons. Upon a parishioners death, it would be the city gods who would judge their sins, and decide their fate in the afterlife.

The two city gods in Qikou are Guandu, a noble warrior and deity of righteousness, and a black dragon, which would bring rain for the crops (and 6 metre high floods, but that gets glossed over).

Guanyu in all his refinements

Getting there

Assuming you’ve made it to QiKouZhen, it’s the only temple on the only hill in town. The steps up are steep and quite worn, so be careful in wet weather.

Looking up at the temple from the road to LiJiaShan

Hopefully related posts:

Qikou Trading Post on the Yellow River – Shanxi Province Black Dragon Pool, Lijiang, Yunnan Staying in Cave dwellings at Lijiashan Village, near Qikou zhen A Rant of Two Cities – Pingyao Ancient Walled City, Shanxi Province