Standing below the Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda on the Golden Rock
Getting There
After the drive from Yangon to Kyaikhtiyo the porcupine we’d eaten for lunch was having an unfortunate effect on my stomach. The driver assured me we’d reach our hotel in five minutes.
Thirty agonising minutes later we pulled up and I ran to the loo.
Emerging to the amused array of waiting staff I followed them to the dining room, where we ordered a lacklustre lunch which I barely touched.
The driver suggested we get ready as the truck to the Golden Rock would be leaving in fifteen minutes.
The Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda is atop a mountain surrounded by a large forest park. It’s possible to take the 4-6 hour pilgrimage on foot, but in our poisoned condition we decided to take a truck instead.
I wanted to put the bags in the room, but the driver said he’d take care of it.
We rushed to the truck with ten minutes to spare.
Everyone waiting in the back of the truck
The flatbed truck had hard planks crossing the space in the rear. A few families sat right in the middle, with no one at the front or back. We watched as a monk boarded and the families parted to let him sit at the front, which seems to be a special privilege.
We climbed in and went to the back. The rest of the seats were filled and waited the remaining five minutes.
Two hot and humid hours of uncomfortable waiting later, we set off…
Trying not to fall out
The back seat of the truck turned out not to be the best choice. The truck drove at breakneck speed, not slowing for corners or potholes. By the time we arrived I was exhausted simply from trying not to be thrown out.
We two foreigners were ushered out and the rest of the passengers drove off into the distance. Looking around we were in a rundown looking tent camp/truck garage. A group of boys in blue motioned towards a series of switchbacks leading up the hill, so we started walking.
Climb up to the Golden Rock
Getting up the hill
The hill was surprisingly steep and hard going in the 40°C humidity of Myanmar’s rainy season. The tarmacked road looked to be lined with inviting tea houses, but they’d all closed for the off season.
We had no idea how long the hill was, but after a couple of hundred meters we were joined by more boys in blue. Four were carrying a simple wooden sedan chair and one walked alongside me.
H sauntered on effortlessly, whilst I sounded like a steam train puffing up the hill. The earlier stomach issues and lack of lunch were sapping my energy and I really wasn’t enjoying the hike.
“It’s very steep” pointed out one of the boys in blue. “It gets steeper”.
“You look tired already; you’re not going to make it”
Me: “Well, thanks for the encouragement. How far is it?”
Him: “A long way. We could carry you. Only $50. You look tired.”
Me: “I’ve done worse.”
Him: “Alright, $40”. Shake of my head “It’s off-season, we’ll take $25”
Me: “I’m not being carried up there.” It felt a bit too colonial for my taste.
Him: “You will. You look ill”. He didn’t look too concerned for my health.
I had been considering a tactical vomit, but they wouldn’t give us any privacy and I wouldn’t give him the satisfaction. We plodded on, me sweating profusely, him patiently walking in circles round me, like a shark circling his prey.
Him: “$10”. The younger boys carrying the palanquin looked underwhelmed at the prospect.
I stopped, completely devoid of energy, and prepared a rehydration drink. They stopped with me and continued their taunts. Drinking only made the stomach cramps worse, so I slumped down on the nearest thing, which happened to be the palanquin. “$6” he offered, and I shrugged.
Having come this far I couldn’t face walking down any more than up. Hating him and myself, they lifted me up with a grunt and the four carriers set off at a better pace, leaving my tormentor behind.
Some way short of the top my stomach had settled so I called my litter bearers to a halt. I gave them the $6 that would no doubt get taken by the leader, and handed out $5 per carrier to keep for themselves, which cheered them up a lot.
At the Golden Rock
A lot more hiking later we reached the peak. Despite the mist this time of year the clouds broke long enough to get a few photos.
Within a few minutes the area clouded over and the rains started.
Getting down
Having had enough of the increasingly cold rain we hiked back down again, only to be told the park had closed and the last bus had left, but one of the road repair crews was kind enough to give us a lift back to town.
Arriving back at the hotel our tour driver spotted us and asked what we were doing. Apparently we were supposed to stay at the top and had The Golden Rock Hotel booked up there, so we could see the sun rise shining on the Golden Rock.
Unhelpfully he he’d not mentioned any of this before we left, so we hadn’t taken any luggage up, and were now stranded without a hotel. Even if we could have got back into the park there was no way we could have faced hiking up the mountain again in the worsening rain.
The Golden Rock ‘hotel’ where we’d eaten lunch was just a restaurant. We trudged through the mud to find a cheaper hotel, pettily hoping it was still overcast in the morning so there couldn’t have been any photos anyway. The only place open was the Golden Sunrise Hotel, which was just rubbing it in.
Never have two people been so happy to wake up to a dark, overcast, rainy day that would have made photos impossible, doubled with the knowledge that we didn’t have the hike down to contend with.
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After reading your report on the Golden Rock several times I’m worrying about my itinerary (Jan. 2013) that includes essentially the same visit. I was in Myanmar 3 weeks last year and am coming back for the full 28 days this time with two other gals. We are all “of a certain age” and well traveled. I’m hoping this part of the itinerary won’t scare the other two off. My agent advised about the walk after the ride, but it sounds quite unpleasant. Can you offer reassurance to allay my fears? There is still time to change the itinerary, but hotel arrangements are already in place.
Hi Mona,
It is a hard climb but you can pay the litter bearers to carry you and your luggage from the bottom all the way to the top (which is what I should have done in my condition). Don’t accept their first price though! We were there in summer – it’ll be a lot cooler in January and all the tea shops along the route will be open so you can stop and take your time with a cold drink. Go slowly and you’ll be fine.
For the ride out to the park in the back of the truck try and keep your guide close by. Ours wandered off, but had he been around to let us know what was happening we could have waited in a cafe, rather than baking in the heat in the back of the truck. Also, try and sit more in the middle or towards the front for a less bumpy ride.
Have a great time and come back to let us know how you get on
I would say Middle is not the worst choice of the seat on the truck. Because when the truck climb the mountain, the front people butt fall on your kneel and the back person kneel will make your back uncomfortable. Moreover, you have nowhere to grab in the middle and solely depending on the people around you.
The tips is when you climb, sit in front of the truck. When you going down, sit at the back of the truck. It will create a room for you when the truck actually moving.
The best way to reach the top is 4-6 hours of hiking by foot. It is total 7mile plus. The hiking road is unlike the walk after the ride, not made of concrete. It’s just simply dirt jungle Road. You can take your time climbing and rest when you feel like and enjoy the nature. Because even if you reach to the top, you might not have anything special to do which need a lot of time. So you would rather take time for hiking. There are a few shops here and there in the hiking journey. And it is safer than truck. I always pray hard whenever i have to take the truck to go up for the safety.
Too bad about ur stomach ache. If not, it would have been more enjoyable.
It’s best to avoid going to Golden Rock when raining. It’ll ruin it all. As I said in previous post, The best timing is October-May. (most likely it won’t rain).
Since you said u went there is summer, I really wondering which month you went there.
Again, just to remind the future traveler, do not expect good service, good food and cheap price.
Good tips. We were there in June – it was 40 degrees that day, and very humid.
Sorry… What i meant to say was.. Middle is worst choice….
I guessed that – the middle looked uncomfortable and the front was reserved for the monks, so we hung on the back. I was tempted to ride in the luggage cage on the back.
It’s okay for man to sit or stand together with monks in front. It’s just Burmese people courtesy and respect for the monks. But that monk alone can’t fill up or occupied the whole front row, can he? If I have to take the truck, the best place i think is standing in front of the truck. You can grab the pole, you feel the wind. Even it would make your leg tired. It is still better than someone butt on your kneel. You can hold the pole firmly and can predict what’s coming since you are standing and can see the view in front. Of course, you are to responsible for your safety 100% all the time.
Oh… another thing is if you pay extra like 500 or 1000 kyats, (Since my last trip to there was 2006 I don’t really know the pricing now) you can sit comfortable beside driver. But they will put like 2 adult in that room. Probably you and your accompany together? Anyway you will get sounder trip. 🙂
Don’t ever try to carry your luggage with you while hiking. Take only camera, wallet, Passport and IC, A bottle of water. There are these service that carry your bags to the top. There is an office which measure your luggage weight and assigned the person to carry. It cost depending on your weight of luggage. Since that is official, you will have lesser chance for scam or digging your money out and you can assure the safety of your luggage. Cos you can trace back with the office. The person name and worker ID, something like that. However, you might still be able to bargain the price if you are lucky.
Try again for next time. 🙂
Thank you for your reply.
It’s funny – I’ve been researching the net for updated information about getting to and from the golden rock from Yangon, for my blog post about it here: http://www.thewanderlist.net/myanmar/kyaiktiyo/
And it turns out that sadly not ONE traveller seems to have had a good experience! Sickness, scams, getting stuck overnight, the agonisingly long journey there… and most of all, that hilarious sardine can on wheels they take you up the hill in! I’m bruising just thinking about it.
Enjoyed reading your blog 🙂