As we emerge from one of the long and numerous tunnels in this mountainous region, a sign welcoming us to Gansu province explains that they’re currently converting as much as possible of the surrounding farmland to terraces.
Passing across the tops of the hills, the land as far as we can see is covered in a patchwork of green and yellow fields, dotted with the occasional homestead.
Only a short distance further into the county, approaching Dingxi, the hills change their geology and become Loess hills. These have steep vertical faces, and the earliest settlers carved out homes in the hillside, which are still visible today.
This area has been terraced as well, and the hills are resisting erosion. Sadly, towards the base of the hills and the valleys between, the fields have fallen away into huge crevasses, along with bridges, hedges and homes.
The arable ridges that are left are either so narrow to be unusable, or entirely unreachable by machinery, so the farmers are reduced to using ploughs pulled by ox, or even by hand.
The expressway we were on cuts through all of this, but down below there is no longer an infrastructure of roads, and whole communities seem isolated on rapidly eroding outcrops.
It can’t be an easy place to live, but does have a desolate attractiveness.
Dingxi Potatoes
This little chap hitched a ride during one photo stop and held on all the way down the expressway. This was more impressive given that we had a government plates and a driver who didn’t feel the need to take notice of any speed limits. He also wouldn’t stop to take photos of the messed up land above, hence the rushed snapshots.
We stopped for lunch in Dingxi, apparently known as China’s capital of potatoes. The most recommended restaurant in town turned out to be a greenhouse, and we sat in amongst the plants eating the produce, including a particularly fine Dingxi potato dish.
Our weary driver booked us into two hotel suites, and went to find somewhere to eat. He ended up reopening a cavernous restaurant that had closed for the night, and I sat there feeling guilty whilst the staff watched us malevolently and I wondered how the unseen chefs were taking their revenge…
Back at the hotel I settled down to watch some news on TV. A lady in a particularly New Romantics style pullover reported on a river being a bit muddy for this time of year.
The next report by a man in a very tight suit detailed the main story of the day: A car had been clamped in the hospital car park. The owner agreed that she’d parked in the wrong place so paid the fine. Back to you in the studio.
Turning to the internet for some less local news, I couldn’t find the promised network cable socket. The lovely maid arrived quickly, but didn’t appear to be au fait with the latest technologies, as she tried to plug my laptop into a hole in the wallpaper. “That’s right, that’ll work” said the maid. I point out the socket isn’t actually a real socket. She waggled the cable a bit and looked hopeful.
