Our introduction to Azerbaijani Food – Baku, Azerbaijan

After the city tour of Baku we were treated to an Azerbaijani feast, as guests of the Azerbaijan Tourist Board.

This is what greeted us at the restaurant

The caravanserai is a large two storey building with intricately carved woodwork and brick walls lined with fine tapestries. A small carpet in the centre held an array of candles and samovars.

The eyes didn’t linger for long on this centrepiece as they were drawn to the amazing spread on the tables. Fresh bread, colourful salads and cheeses covered the large white cotton tablecloth.

Purely by coincidence I sat closest to the cheese.

I was travelling alone, but was seated at a table with those who would make up the press trip following the conference. Many of the dishes were new to all of us, so it was a good way to meet new people whilst discussing whether certain leaves and flowers were edible or simply part of the decoration. Still not sure, but many tasted decent enough.

We sat and ate our fill as the entertainment started. Drummers set the beat for dancers and whirling dervishes, whilst we watched, stuffed in a post meal haze.

Then the second course arrived.

And the third, fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh.

Spicy dumpling soup was followed by creamy Russian salads, cold meats and salty cheeses, hot grilled fish, stuffed vegetables, kebabs and finally a selection of ornate baklava.

We were also given bottles and bottles of Azeri wine, which tasted pleasingly smooth, bringing back hazy memories of Georgian wine tasting.

By now I was jetlagged and ready for bed, but instead we were conducted round for an hour on a night tour of the city, including the world’s second tallest flag, the Crystal Hall and our first sight of the spectacular Flame Tower illuminations.

Stuffed Eggplants, Peppers and Tomatoes – Dolmasi

Stuffed Eggplants, Peppers and Tomatoes – Dolmasi

During the meal we were introduced to a colourful staple of Azerbaijan cuisine – vegetables stuffed with meat. The most popular is Eggplant (Badimjan Dolmasi), but we also had green pepper (Bibar Dolmasi) and a large tomato (Pomidor Dolmasi). The trio is known as uch baji, or three sisters.

The Stuffing is made of

4 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter
700g minced beef or lamb
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 medium green pepper (pointed or bell), finely chopped
chopped tomato pulp (the filling of the hollowed out tomatoes works well)
1 cup chopped fresh basil (dried isn’t strong enough), or ½ basil, ½ coriander/cilantro
½ cup cooked and split chickpeas (1/4 cup dried, boiled in slightly salted water and drained), optional to bulk out the meat
salt & ground black pepper, to taste

Blanch the eggplant/aubergine then scoop out a hollow. Cut the top off the pepper and tomato to make a container.

Fry the meat then onion together for 10 minutes, stir in the pepper and tomato for another 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and stir in the remaining ingredients.

Line the vegetable shells with salt & pepper and fill with the meat stuffing.

Place the stuffed vegetables back in a pan with 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil,m then cover and simmer for 40 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Don’t let them get mushy.

Serve with Lahmacun bread and garlicky yoghurt, interestingly called Aryan.

There is a simple yet authentic recipe for Lahmacun bread and Aryan drink at the excellent ‘AZ Cookbook’.

Lahmacun bread and garlicky yoghurt, called Aryan

This trip was arranged by the Azerbaijan Tourist Board, as part of the United Nations World Tourism Organisation Silk Road Conference.

Hopefully related posts:

Villa Petrolea, the Nobel Brothers Museum – Baku, Azerbaijan Flame Towers – Baku, Azerbaijan The best dishes of Southern Azerbaijan – Khan Lankaran Visiting Azerbaijan’s Crystal Hall – Baku