Buses to Bulls – Getting around Cuba by public transport

The roads of Havana are filled with everything from taxis and buses, to private carts and even horses and carts.

The Drive to Vinales

We travelled from Havana to Vinales on a TransTur tour bus, accompanied by our new guide.

The bus set of exactly on schedule, whilst the guide explained that the roads here are concrete so extremely slippery if it ever rains. Immediately on cue, it started to pour down. A few minutes later we passed an identical bus to ours, the only difference being it had skidded off the road, through a heavy stone wall and into the restaurant beyond. We accelerated off into the distance along the increasingly waterlogged road, leaving the restaurant owner to ponder his new drive-through service options.

As quickly as it had started, the rains stopped and the heat dried the road within a few minutes.

There are restaurants, truck stops and tourist traps scattered along the roadside, much the same as in any country, but here the menus tend to be quite short. The first one we tried offered nothing but ham or cheese sandwiches and another only sold ham or mushroom pizzas. All the street side food was delicious, but judging by the lurid colours of the sauces I’d guess it’s not entirely natural and home-made.##

View from the front of a bus in Cuba during a rainstorm

Here are a few of the options for getting around Cuba:

Transtur Buses

We used Transtur buses very successfully for our entire trip. Bus timetables and booking can be located at their website: http://www.transtur.cu.

They also offer car and driver hire, but we didn’t try it. The cost is usually only three times the bus fare, so if there’s a few of you in an MPV it’s a good deal.

Viazul Buses

Viazul is the nationally run bus company. It is the same price as Transtur but has less departures and a habit of not honouring pre-booked seat reservations. http://www.viazul.com

The tiny railway station in Trinidad

Trains

We looked at taking the train in Trinidad, but they have a very odd approach to timetabling, so the train may arrive, it may not – there’s not much prospective passengers can do but wait at the station.

Hitchhiking

Hitchhiking is very popular amongst Cubans, and every intersection is lined with hopeful passengers. Unfortunately Cuban drivers can be fined for picking up tourists, so it’s not a viable way of travel whilst on holiday.

Renting a car

We were keen to do this for a bit more freedom. Driving here looks quite straightforward as there’s very little traffic on the roads, but after sitting on various buses for a while it became apparent there are also very few road signs or street lights. The roads are very well maintained (or just haven’t has much wear and tear).

Road traffic in the Cuban countryside

Bicycle

Cuba is a popular destination for cycling holidays – the island is pretty flat and the temperature not too oppressive. I’m not sure I’d enjoy cycling on some of the more humid days though.

Guantanamera

One downside of public buses is that as a passenger you have little say in what comes over the tannoy. Our driver wanted some music, so put Guantanamera on over the speakers. Again and again for the final four hours of the journey.

(Even if you don’t recognise the name, you’ll know it when you hear it!)

Hopefully related posts:

The classic cars of Cuba – a waning tradition Public transport – Beijing, China Life lessons by the sugar mills – Valle de los Ingenios, Cuba In Photos: The coloured streets of Trinidad – Cuba